Flat bottom skiff design | Boat Design Net
Holly Point Open Fisherman plans.� FREE plans � Holly Point Skiff, aka Holly Point Open Fisherman. It�s time we got back to the fuel efficient hull forms, and here�s one that will give the thrill of Diy Plywood Boat Plans Free Kitty planing speeds, with the economy of a skiff. It is a large, lightweight power dory with extreme flare in the forward sections for dry running and seaworthiness.� 23? LOA by 6? beam open power dory. Flat bottom with waterline beam of 4 feet for maximum speed, will plane with 15 hp, will carry 6 adults at 20mph with 25hp. Two layers of 1/4 inch plywood over moulds epoxy fiberglass outside (three layers of tape on the chines), epoxy coated inside. Three stringers are 2 x 4�s � all pieces lumber yard stock. With a flat-bottomed skiff there�s no easy way to improve on either without making the boat much narrower on the bottom, with all that would entail. Like this boat? Send your comments to gmatkin@myboat015 boatplans I think she�s a sweet little boat and I�m very much looking forward to seeing some examples afloat.� If you do build the Julie skiff, please send me photos and reports at gmatkin@myboat015 boatplans, and also please let me know how the project goes. At least while the numbers being built are small, if you hit problems I will be very happy to provide advice to make sure your boat is a success. Download: myboat015 boatplans Julie skiff plans. See all posts so far on this boat. Flat Bottom Skiffs. Collection by Paul Ylee. � Meet Matthew Abello's East Cape Skiffs Fury with Suzuki 60 HP Quick Specs on the East Cape Fury | Website | Phone: Length: 18� -1� Width: 72� Real Draft: 4�- 8� (Fully Rigged w/Two Anglers & Gear) MFG. Suggested Power: HP outboard Tiller, Side Console, Center Console, Free Boat Plans Wood Boat Plans Boat Building Plans Bass Fishing Boats Kayak Boats Kayak Fishing Fishing Tips Bass Boat Cool Boats. @lowtidefly! !? USE |.

This skiff is heavily based on my "Portuquese Style Dinghy". I myself, and several others who have built the dinghy have been satisfied with her, so why not make a slightly larger version? This skiff can be built with "modern" looks, with a slanting bow, like the drawing with blue sides above. Or "traditional", more sharpie-like looks, with a plumb bow, like the drawing with red sides below. Or anything between This skiff displaces about lbs just before flooding, she's at her best with loads between to lbs, that is, one or two adults.

At lbs her freeboard is 12", at lbs 10". Her freeboard falls to 6" at lbs displacement. What's that? Four adults? She could carry more than she has space for. Here is the. It is a good idea to read through the original "Portuquese Style Dinghy" instructions first, if You haven't done so already. Almost everything, except the mesurements, are in common. Some of this text, too ;-. The pieces of the "modern" skiff come out of two sheets of plywood like this. Yes, three butt seams are unavoidable.

But isn't it time to learn how to make a glass-tape butt seam? Learn it here. The "traditional" version requires shifting the plywoods a little to ge the bottom pieces in line. There will probably be small dents at the edge of the bottom piece, but they are easy to fill in with a small bit of plywood and epoxy, and they will be left under the fiberglass tape eventually. Cover the board with a sheet of plastic, to prevent epoxy from sticking to the board.

Soak a strip of fiberglass tape, the length of the seam, in slightly thickened epoxy and lay it on the board and sheet of plastic red.

Wet the edges of the plywood sheet with unthickened epoxy, over the width of the fiberglass tape. Lay the plywood sheets on top of the soaked fiberglass tape, edge against edge. Support the sheets a couple of bits of similar boards under the sheets so that they sit level. Immobilise the sheets by screwing through the sheets into the board, outside the fiberglass strip. Soak another strip of fiberglass tape, the length of the seam, in slightly thickened epoxy and lay it on the plywood sheet seam green.

Lay a sheet of plastic on top of the wet fiberglass tape. Screw another board on top of all this brown , to press the fiberglass plywood sandwich together. Let the epoxy harden at least until the next day. Then unscrew all screws and remove the boards and sheets of plastic. Fill in the screw holes with thickened epoxy putty. The pressure between the boards flattens the fiberglass tape and epoxy neatly against the plywood. The seam probably won't need any filling.

One strip of fiberglass is enough to join plywood up to 6. This boat would be made of 6. First cut the sides. The crucial measurements for the front part of one side are given here. The upper, visible edge of the boat side comes from the factory edge of the ply, so at least that edge will be straight and clean.

There are other "standard" plywood sizes, too, but this is probably the most common standard. Or anywhere between for a look "between". Measurements for the rear part of the sides. Measurements for the transom are not needed, the left over part from between the side parts makes the transom "as is" the bright yellow piece. Then mark points E, F and G on the edge of the ply. The width of the hull will be set at these points using three lengths of board.

The board between points E should be mm 33" long, ends cut at 68 degrees for the "modern" version, 71 degrees for the "traditional". The board between points F should be mm 46" long, ends cut at 66 degrees both versions. The board between points G should be mm 43" long, ends cut at 64 degrees both versions. If You don't feel comfortable with cutting the angles, forget about them. Just see that the distance between the sides of the boat at E, F and G are correct.

From here on, just follow the building instructions on the "Portuquese Style Dinghy" pages. Except that the bow stem angle in this case is 67 degrees for the "modern" version, 57 degrees for the "traditional", so some planing is required.

A lenghtwise seat would be quite proper, but traditional ones may also be used. I can think of two sensible traditional seat arrangements. A rear and front seat could be added, for three people on board. But I won't, because the temptation to seat two people in a configuration only suitable for one or three would be too big. With two on board she would drag her transom, would be hard to row, and You'd think it's the boat's fault.

Second, two seats, optimized for two people. This configuration just about works for a single person on the front seat, being slightly bow-heavy, however. In sharp-bowed craft the line of the bottom, viewed in profile, should conform to a general rule. The heel of the stem should either touch the water or be just clear of it. From this point the line of bottom, or chine, should run straight and sloping downwards for about one third of the water-line length of the boat; from there it should go into a reasonably gentle curve through the middle third, and then should again become straight, or very nearly so, and run upward to the stern.

I interpret this as "as far as wave-making resistance is concerned, it does not matter so much what the shape of the hull is, as long as the underwater volume distribution along the hull length is optimal".

The volume distribution of a boat hull is usually described by a so called "curve of areas". A curve showing the areas of cross sections of the boat hull, taken at every spot along the hull length. Having taken Chapelle's advice on the bottom curvature, the curve of areas for this skiff turned to look like this at lbs displacement. Take a note of the prismatic coefficient 0. What would an optimum curve of areas look like? One possible answer is given by the so called "Sears-Haack body", developed in while analyzing fuselage shapes for supersonic jet fighters.

Given some theoretical constraints, this body shape gives Tunnel Hull Flats Boat Plans 8th the lowest wave drag of all body shapes. Another possible answer, given by some sources, is the cosine curve. It seems, however, that the midsection of a cosine curve is fuller than usually considered optimum.

The prismatic coefficient of a body, whose volume is distributed cosine-like, is 0. Whether or not the "Sears-Haack body" is the optimum boat hull underwater shape, I don't know. This skiff conforms pretty closely to the volume distribution of that shape, however. The prismatic coefficient of a "Sears-Haack body" is 0. What was it for this skiff, again?

Moral of the story? Even a very simple boat hull may conform perfectly to a fancy equation. Or, putting it another way, a perfect boat from the point of theoretical wave drag in this case does not need to be so fancy.

You should know:

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