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18.03.2021 admin
16' Tunnel King - tunnel hull-boatdesign

Admiral powercats are leagues goat in design, with a fuel efficiency that most usjng would envy. Boat plans - tunnel hull boat plans - master boat builder with 31 years of experience finally releases archive of illustrated, tunnell boat plans free hydroplane boat plans aluminum huull boat building plans,how to build a small boat launch ilen school of wooden boat building,building a steel sailboat model boat hull tunnel hull boat plans using. Our tunnel hull boat plan is not an exact tunnel hull boat plans using of the atkins tunnel boat design, it is a blend of the rescue minor with some later tunnell and the lines have been fine tuned to allow for easy building in plywood.

The boat tracks straight as an arrow, but when put into a turn, the hull remains flat and level responding quickly and positively to your action on the helm.

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The propeller region of the tunnel is straight and parallel. I calculated the length of the propeller region to be 28 inches long in order to accommodate removing the prop without removing the rudder. In order to have a degree or less tunnel entrance as suggested in Blount's paper , the tunnel entrance had to be at least 35 inches long. After a lot of measuring, I made a paper template that lined up with the existing hole in the hull and allowed me to draw the curve for the front half of the tunnel on the hull.

I used the same template for both sides of the tunnel based off the centerline of the boat so the tunnel is as perfectly symmetrical as I can get it. After an hour of cutting carefully with the Sawzall, the hole is now complete. I used this template to cut 8 identical pieces out of half inch plywood.

I clamped them all together and sanded them as smooth a possible, trying to make all 8 pieces identical. I found the exact centerline of each semi circle not as easy as it sounds and marked it with a Bic pen.

Four of the semi circles are identical in height. These four pieces are for the propeller region which is symmetrical. I ran the other four pieces across the table saw and removed 1-inch segments from each piece. One is 1 inch shorter, one is 2 inches shorter, one is 3 inches shorter and one is 4 inches shorter. This gives me the slope I need for the tunnel entrance by aligning the semi-circles with the hole I cut in the hull. I needed a nice solid platform to design the tunnel mold on so that it doesn't change shape throughout the building process.

This gives me a nice solid table to build the tunnel mold on. I placed the platform directly under the boat, shimmed to exactly match the same angle that the boat is sitting using my digital level. Then, I drilled a hole through the centerline of all 8 semicircles using my drill press. Once I got the semicircles to match the length of the hole I cut, I tightened all the nuts down and the mold got pretty solid.

Not too worried about the shape of the front tip of the tunnel since this will be all glassed in with a shaft log later. This was just so that I could "tuck" the tunnel UNDER the transom, rather than just glassing the tunnel to the inside of the transom. I think my plans have changed. I cut the arc on the transom with a 30in diameter, while the diameter of the tunnel is 28 inches. This will allow me to build the entire tunnel on the inside of the boat and exactly match the inner shape of the hole in the hull.

It will give the tunnel an overall better bond to the hull and match the hole I cut much nicer, so I am going to go that route since I will still be able to lock part of the tunnel under the transom.

I get the best of everything by building the entire tunnel in the boat. If the boat ever hits the rudder or prop on something, this is going to be a much stronger arrangement than just glassing the tunnel to the inner wall of the transom. Once I got it all lined up, the spacing correct and the semi circles bolted down tight, I tacked everything down with my trim nailer and pulled the mold out from under the boat and put it on my work table.

I have the mold ready to be coated with wax and PVA. For now, it's nice to get work done via the ability to climb and in and out of the hole. My main questions are: What kind of tabbing schedule should I use on the tunnel?

How thick should the tunnel be? I will be using 18 oz woven roving and 1. I have about 6 inches from the tunnel hole to the stringers. The stringers are 1. I was thinking of just using an air file or a grinder and doing my best. I don't want there to be a sharp edge right where the new tunnel glass meets the old hull glass. Anyone have any pics of good working tunnels in this size range?

Calculate the total volume of the tunnel you intend to make. Unless the tunnel starts at the bow there will always be a certain shortage of water, no matter how much fairing you do at the entrance.

To replace the volume expelled by the prop, water flows in from all directions, not just from the entrance. So if you keep the entrance angle under say 12 degrees to avoid turbulence, the whirlpool starts just after the entrance when water from the left and right gets in and encounters a much sharper edge. With increasing speed some water even tries to get in at the stern.

My experiences with twin tunnels can be found on this forum when you search for tunnel drives. CDK , Feb 19, Is there a better way to radius the hull edge of the tunnel than with a grinder and straight line sander?

I wouldn't be overly optimistic it will work that well unless it is beamier than it appears. And you can forget 10 knots being an efficient speed, you will need to be going quite a bit faster, or slower, to enjoy the best fuel economy.

Mr Efficiency , Feb 19, I don't personally know any naval architects. The primary objective of the tunnel is to reduce the draft, not increase efficiency. It's the larger prop that is going to give me better efficiency at 10 knots, but the caveat is I needed a tunnel to swing that larger prop.

V-drive tunnel boats are built all the time and are great if done right. As the tunnel gets larger, not only do you lose displacement, you lose dynamic lift. I don't want the tunnel any larger than it needs to be since the objective is to decrease the draft and I have already accomplished that goal.

I realize 10 knots is right in between planing and displacement speeds and it will not be the ideal speed for efficiency. But, Mini Tunnel Hull Boat Plans Usa the fish around here like to bite around 10 knots. There are definitely right choices to be made as far as tunnel design, prop choice, trim, etc in order to optimize the boat for the best efficiency possible at 10 knots.

Wahoo Ono? What is the waterline beam of your boat? Tons of Ono but also mahi at 10 knots. Tuna a bit slower, around 3 to 8 knots. The waterline beam is 87 inches. The waterline length is about 25 feet. Thanks for the input. Here is recent pic: My questions still remain though How thick should the tunnel finished tunnel fiberglass be be?

I was thinking of just using a grinder and a straight line sander and doing my best to make both sides look equal. I don't want there to be a sharp edge where the new tunnel glass meets the old hull glass. Your tunnel ought not intersect the bottom with a sharp transition, but rather be well radiused, with a view to avoiding cavitation. Or at least, that is what is generally advised.

I would consider building a hump onto the keel just ahead of the tunnel assuming it won't interfere with your trailer. The hump will allow a much greater radius at the leading edge of the tunnel and, I believe, help to draw or direct water into the tunnel. Think of the hump or bulb as displacing the water, then the water rushes around the hump and up into the tunnel.

The hump will sort of act as a primer. About the Plans: I am not a naval architect, or an engineer, or even a draftsman. I am a forester by education, a furniture-maker by profession now retired , and a boat-builder, sailor and racer by inclination. I have built a number of boats over the last 35 years or so: from the 8-foot hydroplane I built when I was fourteen, to a foot sailboat built in the s, and a bunch of tunnel and v-bottom raceboats since I design my boats on a "computer aided design" CAD program on my computer.

Once the basic lines have been developed, I draw the plans full-size on a loft table to ensure all curves are fair. Corrections made in the loft plan are then carried back to the CAD drawings and the plans are finalized.

The resulting plans are NOT a set of blueprints or full-size drawings. The plans are in part a collection of digital scale drawings of all the major parts which the builder can print out on regular printer paper. Pre-printed drawings shipped via postal mail are also available. The drawings include all necessary measurements so that the builder can expand them full-size -- onto paper templates if desired, or better yet right onto the plywood.

The plans package, available via direct download or by postal mail, includes sixteen measured drawings; a scantling list; and some notes on wood, hardware and other materials needed to complete your boat and set it up for recreational boating or sanctioned racing. Also, I provide extensive online construction notes , including dozens of photos, which will guide you through the entire building process. And, I will be just an email away if you have questions.

You can pay online through Paypal you do not need a Paypal account , or you may send a check or money order. The Dillon Pro Tunnel. Continue Shopping. Jeff Larson 19 wins in his Dillon Pro Tunnel.

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